Single pitch rock climbing venues north wales

 looking for a single pitch rock climbing venue in North wales?

What defines a Single Pitch Route?

A single pitch route is one which:

• is climbed without intermediate stances - i.e . you can climb to the top with ease using less than a rope length.

• is described as single pitch in the guidebook

• is non-tidal - one or two local exeptions (local risk assessment required)

• is non-serious and has little objective danger -

• presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding,
scrambling or navigating.

Lion Rock -

Llanberis guide book : Llanrug centre have produced a topo guide, other centres may have a copy.

Grid refrence 4 figure  SH 5662 parking  and crags

• Main Crag
• Spotty 
• Bouldering / Fachwen

Yellow Wall

SH 5662  across the lake park at SH559622 and walk towards Llanberis on old road.

Slate

Bus Stop

Llanberis Pass

• Craig Fach Llanberis guide book : Grid Refrence :  SH635556
  Approach from either Chromelch Boulders  easier to see the crag and to get back from, or The Pen Y Pass car park
  
  
• Dinas Bach and Craig Cwm Budy mawr
  
  
• Dinas Mot slabs just across the road from the the Chromlech boulders
  
• 
  

Tremadog 

Upper Tier  Can be very busy quickly , various grades including some OK bouldering behind the crag. 

There are two approaches

1 from below park at old tannery big hike up hill pretty well worn path .

2. up the single track lane in Prenteg, large grass verge well before  Ty Mawr (house ) thge follow path to the top off the crag - not so obvious.

Careg y Foel Gron 

busy in the summer, too cold in the winter, but brilliant all the same rough rock, great weasling crawling through boulders.

guide book : Meirionnydd page 220 - 223

• Main crag grades : Diff to E5
  
• Upper tier easy for kids
  

Clogwy Y Creau - "the rock up behind Betws Y Coed"

Two access ways like the upper tier Tremadog steep up hill or sneaky easier walk in.

1. Park in Betws at Stewart Cunninghams and walk up the path through the forest.

2. Drive down the lane past Stewart cunninghams to the left (not the main lane towards Conwy) 

At the steep junction to the right drive up hill till you reach old mine related building, some times mini buses can be found here ( a good indicator that someones ahead of you ) Follow the path through the woods not easy if you dont know the way...

The crag its seld has lots of trees at the top take long rogging ropes for setting up of the belays. 

Barmouth Slabs

Payment required to use the crags

 Bird Rock

Col Crag guide book : Meirionnydd, page 457-8 Grades Diff - E2

Tonfannau 

 Guide book Simon Patons north wales bouldering guide, climbing access by Cae Du farm pay for parking ( great campsite on the cliff above the sea !!! views to die for) 

or access from Tonanfau railwaystation  

Anglesey

• Holyhead mountain
  
• Porth Dafach - steep dogpoo etc!

North Wales Limestone

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